My Xmas trip to Managua with Mary Mary in tow ended with a nighttime slow drive down the Avenida Bolivar, the primary north/south street that ends at the National Theater and the remains of the once-magnificent cathedral, now a relic of the 1971 earthquake. Block after block of Avenida Bolivar is lined with large Nativity displays, each illuminated and accompanied by deafening Christmas music, The ensuing cacophony is at once celebratory and absurd. The whole area is bedecked with illuminated bells, xmas presents, angels, and ornaments, and thousands of people strolled the Avenida, munching candy apples and tortillas on offer from street vendors. There was plenty of free-market action, with Christmas souvenirs lined up cheek by jowl with Star Wars light sabres and Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle toys. Mosquito swatters and baggies filled with water, juice and other libations competed for the crowd's cordobas with boards of sunglasses, jewelry, watches, and peanuts. Here are some visuals:
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| "Jesus Forever" was this year's theme. |
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| Santa? |
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| Cathedral shell illuminated. |
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| Hugo Chavez, tho' long gone, lives in light forever in Managua! |
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| The godawful "trees of life" have spawned children... |
A large question looms over this extravagant celebration. A friend explained that each of the dozens of Nativity displays is supplied by an industry or company that does business in Nicaragua. According to him, they are obligated to provide a spectacular display each December if they wish to continue doing business. If this is true, it would be a most unseemly mix of church and state and extortion. It is a new tradition of just a few years, so perhaps it may morph into a voluntary and truly celebratory event. The lights are extraordinary, the vendors make some money, and the people? We saw very few smiles except on the faces of children.
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